The Citizen

I just returned from a few days in Toronto for the North By North East music fest. Among the highlights of the trip were two visits to The Citizen, located on Queen Street East. I can't say we were anything but blown away by chef and proprietor Rodney Bower's creation in the heart of the still-sketchy Riverside area. The Citizen's light hearted atmosphere belies the richness of its fare: new interpretations of Old World classics like schnitzel (a favourite, judging by the fact it was unavailable on our dinner visit) and pasta standards. Brunch (or, as Bowers dubs it, "Lupper") is simply a revelation: the braised beef hash, rich with tomatoes and topped with a poached egg was a popular and universally prised selection. Bowers himself is impishly affable, emerging from the kitchen to chat up guests and bus tables. During our brunch visit, Bowers told us he wanted The Citizen to be known as a destination spot. I know I'll certainly make a point of heading there whenever I'm in the Big Smoke.